"You're not stuck in traffic; you are traffic!" - Borrowdale and Langdale

Iconic stuff - Phil on the Troutdale Pinnacle

For the first time on our Classic Rock adventure, we headed to the Lake District. Feeling fit and with a great forecast, we had an ambitious agenda; 3 routes on Gimmer Crag in the morning and a hike over to Bowfell Buttress for a lengthy Langdale day, as long as the knee held out.

Our decision to take on the Classic Rock list was never in question until half way up C Route on Gimmer, where the first holdup, in a weekend of queueing and sharing belays with other teams, gave us over an hour in the sun to chat, nap and philosophise over the “why” of the challenge. We were now the incarnation of Ken Wilson’s fear; that in trying to encourage people to climb in new areas by compiling a list of standout routes, people would narrowly attempt the list only, without further exploration.

Why were we queueing for C route instead of trying North West Arete? Because NW Arete wasn’t in the book, and we held onto the hope of finishing C Route quick enough to get over to Bowfell! 2 MORE TICKS!

You shouldn't have time to nap on a multipitch route

My knee thanked the mixed blessing of the busyness of a quality crag on a glorious day for eventually having to decide we hadn’t the time to include Bowfell.

The experience was distilled further on Sunday in Borrowdale on Shepherd’s crag. We kicked ourselves for not being first on the crag since we’d car-camped pretty close, but still weren’t expecting the 5 parties that were on, waiting for or approaching Little Chamonix.

We queued politely, albeit with a passive-aggresive expression of frustration at the other teams, who we were certain were all slower, less confident and more faffy than ourselves. We came to terms with the hold ups, recognising that we were part of the problem too and that no-one else had less right to be there. We’re not heroes or VIPs just because we’re following someone’s ticks, just trainspotters on rock. We could hardly complain about finding novices on an easy, roadside crag.

One thing I would have liked is a little bit more consideration from our traffic jam. The massive ledge after the first pitch would have been a great place for our team ahead to have acknowledged they were going at a fraction of our pace and courteously allowed us through. It may have cost them 10 minutes, but saved us 2 hours. Being British, rather than alpine guides, we didn’t want to barge through or make a fuss, although did contemplate a Gladiators-style chase up the crag to grab them. Instead we quietly waited, our moods swinging like a hex on the walk-in, sad recognition setting in that we weren’t enjoying this route, partly because we were already concerned about getting to the next one (Troutdale Pinnacle) in time.

Little Chamonix took us longer than Big Chamonix (Cosmiques Arete) had done and we vowed to “burn that bloody book”.

Still having the afternoon, we walked over to Troutdale Pinnacle to repeat the process, having already heard how busy it had been the previous day.

Walking in to the crag was a sublime mix of meadow, stream and woodland; a classically beautiful British habitat. The sound of birds became even more wonderful as we realised that at no point was it being interrupted by climbing calls or the clanging of gear.

We’d struck it lucky and got the crag to ourselves. All previous philosophising and cursing was null and void as we looked up the imposing but strikingly perfect climb to set off on what we both agreed afterwards was one of, or maybe THE best route we’d done.

The Climbs

Gimmer - Bracket and Slab

Approaching the "bracket"

A real mixture of styles in a bold setting, we both had different techniques over the bracket (but then the second always has the luxury of trying bold moves). I inadvertently led Amen Corner, which is a crux on B route, but recommended by Ken as part of B&S. I dread to think what a Lakes HVS is if this layback move fits on a Severe.

We moved together down the East gully (mod), agreeing that this is the worst descent route we’d ever encountered. Sloping grassy, damp leafy ledges and a glossy, wet bum slide to enter.

Ash Tree Slabs

Not as continuous and quality as the books would suggest but no doubt included as a full-length crag continuation approaching the upper section.

C Route

It seems a lot of people misread the middle bit of the description and take an easier line from Philosopher’s Ledge but we stuck to the tricky crack and found it a decent climb through interesting ground on good holds. There are so many routes on this section that the idea that most people climb “alphabet soup” rather than a, b, c etc. is apt. Teams everywhere!

Shepherd’s Crag - Little Chamonix

This is like 2 single pitch routes joined by a scramble through a tree, but much better than that sounds. The creativity of techniques in exposed positions keeps you interested. Even Dave Mcleod would use his bum on the 3rd pitch crux I reckon. The saddle belay is an excellent vantage point from which to view the queues and the final short sharp finish. I’d love to go back on a quiet day, if there is such a thing.

Black Crag - Troutdale Pinnacle

You can see the pinnacle bit from the base of the climb and we’d seen pictures beforehand but we were still blown away by the quality of the route and the positions on it.

Astride the Pinnacle

John exclaimed from the top of the pinnacle itself that where usually they can make it look better in the photos, in this case the position felt and looked far more breath-taking than expected. The route is creative but obvious (partly aided by the polish) and encompasses a mixture of climbing techniques and the need for good rope work to ensure the second is cared-for. The downward slab traverse into a swing up a steep wall feels out there, but the jugs are just when you need them, never before. The pinnacle is everything you’d hope for, with an outstanding and exposed view across the whole of Borrowdale as well as straight down to your rucksacks. Even the final pitch has a sting, requiring boldness and commitment to finish off. 10/10

The Troutdale Pinnacle settled all frustrations from earlier in the weekend and the challenge is still alive, though we’re looking forward to those remote mountain crags even more now.