In a fit of optimistic arrogance, or perhaps arrogant optimism, I set off from Cairngorm mountain car park in my soft walking boots, intending to climb in them so as to not have to carry excess weight up (we were doing a circular walk from the top, rather than lowering off). John reminded me that I’d had a bit of an issue in similar boots on Lazarus in Idwal, I reminded him that I’d done Tophet Wall in them. Plus, the photos of Savage Slit all showed loads of supremely useful-looking horizontal ledges that should make easy work of a corner climb.
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| View from "sandwich ledge" |
Walking into Coire an Lochan isn’t particularly hard fought; a gentle rise from a high car park with facilities, we were well into the bowl before any sweating was required. For some reason the guidebook talks of Savage Slit being on the 4th buttress from the left, instead of just saying the big lump on the right above the slabs, and because the slit itself isn’t visible until you’re almost there, the debate was ongoing as to where we needed to head. At this point we saw other people traversing a trail into the area we thought most likely and started to aim for their obviously more efficient way in. It seems ridiculous to follow people when you don’t know where they’re headed, but it was a good bet; we saw 4 other parties in the coire that day and all were succumbing to the allure of the slit.
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| Which is more savage? |
Given that the party of 3 had just beaten us to the crag, a full appreciation of the surroundings and grandeur was enjoyed over a sandwich, while slowly flaking ropes and racking up. Believing we would be a slick partnership, we patiently gave those above time and space before starting up the easy first scramble pitch.
I then took the lead into the dreaded crevice, making slow and awkward progress, until I needed to use some small footholds. From the ground, those horizontal ledges looked brilliant. Once in the fissure, however, they are revealed to be much shallower, allowing well placed toes in stiff boots or climbing shoes to delicately bridge. But well placed toes in soft walking boots were not staying put. Bugger.
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| Kenny being savaged by the slit |
Lessons forgotten from Idwal and I’m here struggling again. I’d heard the phrase “big boots on VDiffs” many times and assumed I’d have no trouble here. Thrutching deeper into the cleft did me no favours but feet were not finding any confidence. Eventually I clipped a sling into gear to aid a move. Having never attempted aid climbing before, I offered a poor demonstration. Despondent and embarrassed in front of a growing crowd of other parties waiting, I offered John the lead and accepted his tight rope on the second.
An enjoyable climb despite this setback, full of interesting 3D moves and a real mountain sense for such a short route. The higher you get up the crag, the deeper the slit seems to become and careful observation beneath reveals a museum full of vintage personal and climbing gear that has been dropped irretrievably over the years into it’s depths.
Kenny and Rich have joined us on the Scotland road trip and followed us up. Although they made an easier job of it than me, I was reassured by a view of a satisfying struggle through the awkward crux moves. Wanting to enjoy a good mountain day out, we continued to scramble off the top, rather than abbing down like most, linking a walk around the plateau and descent down Fiacaill Ridge. Both the big views north to the coast and the small views of snow bunting scurrying close by took the mind off the wearisome small-boulder hopping at the base of the ridge.
Backing off Eagle Ridge and then having problems on Savage Slit was not a good start to my trip, but surely things will pick up. With midges waiting for us in the car park, we opted not to cook for ourselves but instead a curry in Aviemore, giving us a chance to pore over the next 24 hours of changeable weather forecasts and form something resembling a plan...
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