Incessant White Noise - Bosigran and Avon Gorge

Bosigran (Commando) Ridge

With eyes closed there wasn’t a huge difference; a regular rise and fall in the volume of the whooshing sound as one after the other, they never stopped passing. And so I tried to kid myself that it was the same; the sun on our faces, a gentle breeze and a steep, quality classic route disappearing beneath our feet. 

But with eyes open, a world apart; the white noise caused by the relentless battering of Bosigran rocks by crashing Atlantic swell only added to the overall atmosphere and adventure, whereas the relentless line of traffic entering Bristol on the A4 through Avon Gorge certainly didn’t. 

Neither of us had been to Bosigran before and after a day there we agreed it was a top-class venue in every way. An enormous amphitheatre of perfect crags surrounding a cove staging a continual performance of ocean drama. Gannets diving, white horses racing and the odd seal nosing around meant there was ample entertainment just to sit and watch, so even snack-breaks and belaying ledges became an absolute joy.

Grandstand view

We started our climbing on Bosigran (Commando) Ridge (VD), which isn’t in the book for some reason, although if you go to Bosigran because of Classic Rock and miss out Commando Ridge, it’s not the book that’s wrong, it’s you!

Entering this climbing paradise from halfway through the second pitch due to sea conditions and keen to avoid a repeat of the salty shower John experienced at Chair Ladder, we moved together up countless knife-edges and straightforward but super-exposed hand traverses and delicate ledges. Everytime I’ve climbed Cneifion Arete I’ve not wanted it to end, it’s such continuously satisfying movement and this was the same but with cream (clotted presumably) on top. More than that even, this coastal Cneifion is alpine in feel and brought a smile from start to finish.

Bow Wall and Doorpost behind

Doorpost - HS 4b

A varied route, the first pitch rising spectacularly, while traversing on undercling holds (and on our day clumsily around a climber who took an early belay on another route - we all have moments). Pitch 2 brings the trickiest move, shuffling and leaning to carefully shift your weight from one vertical crack to another. But pitch 3 is where the route transforms quickly and steeply into a climber’s playground. Rounded jugs, creative movement necessary and at one point a swap from hands to feet on a thin bracket of rock that protrudes so far from the buttress, it feels surely about to snap off as you commit to. First hanging off it, then standing on top, it proves as solid as the rest of this bullet hard granite crag and the summit is gained within another few moves, rewarding you with another rest to enjoy the Bosigran vibe and view.

A bit of food in Penzance and a drive to Devon set up the third day of our SW road trip, planning to take in the Dewerstone and Avon Gorge.



Location: Pendeen, Penzance TR20 8YX, UK

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