The Routes

 

Classic Rock Routes list reproduced from UKClimbing.com

contributed by  lithos Aug/10 

A famous collection of great climbs from the 'Classic Rock' book by Ken Wilson (1978), covering routes from all over the UK originally up to a grade of Hard Severe, although many have been subsequently upgraded to VS. The new 2007 edition added four outright routes in the chapter headings: these are Modern and K2 at Hen Cloud. Arrow Route at Sron na Ciche (a connective line accidentally unlisted in the original as it was always described) and Ivy Chimney as a 'continuation' of Milestone Direct (odd as it's atop pulpit route!) .

Please note that alternative names are occasionally used: Black Slab is Hargreaves Original; Mitre Ridge is by the Cumming-Crofton Route. For added depth of adventure look to the text for exciting possibilities: The Orr finish to Labyrinth, making the route VS, is for example well worth hunting out and the HS start to Terrier's Tooth would be sad for any enthusiast to miss, while Bell's incredible finish to the Cumming-Crofton Route is a real cherry on the icing of that little bun! The 2007 edition has a helpful and inspiring appendix of additional and alternative climbs in every part of the country. These are plentiful and will likewise encourage adventure and alternatives.

Articles about the Ken Wilson books and their "puerile tickers" can be found on the Needlesport's Website.

Map of all the route locations:

Add		Climb name	Grade		Height			Crag name
		SCOTLAND
1		Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer)	VD ***		?			Cuillin Ridge...
2		Cioch Direct	S 4a *		150m	• 5		Sron na Ciche
3		Arrow Route	VD ***		61m	• 2		Sron na Ciche
4		Integrity	VS 4c ***		76m	• 2		Sron na Ciche
5		Cioch Nose	VD ***		200m	• 7		Sgurr a' Chaorachain
6		The Long Climb	VS ***		420m	• 11		Ben Nevis
7		Tower Ridge	D ***		600m			Ben Nevis
8		Clachaig Gully (Summer)	S ***		520m			Aonach Eagach -...
9		Archer Ridge	S 4a ***		?	• 3		Aonach Dubh
10		The Long Crack	S **		?			Aonach Dubh
11		Crypt Route	VD ***		?			Bidean nam Bian
12		North Face Route	S *		220m			Buachaille Etive Mor
13		Agag's Groove (Summer)	VD ***		105m	• 4		Buachaille Etive Mor
14		The Chasm (Summer)	VS ***		450m	• 16		Buachaille Etive Mor
15		Squareface	VD ***		?			Beinn a' Bhuird -...
16		Cumming-Crofton Route (Summer)	S ***		?			Beinn a' Bhuird -...
17		Savage Slit (Summer)	S ***		80m	• 4		Cairn Gorm - Cairn...
18		The Clean Sweep	VS 4c ***		185m	• 4		Hell's Lum
19		The Talisman (Summer)	HS 4a ***		100m			Ben Macdui -...
20		Eagle Ridge (Summer)	S ***		250m			Lochnagar
21		Ardverikie Wall	HS 4b ***		185m	• 6		Binnein Shuas
22		Recess Route (Summer)	S ***		110m	• 8		The Cobbler
23		Punster's Crack (Summer)	S ***		?			The Cobbler
24		Ardgartan Arête	VS 4b **		54m	• 3		The Cobbler
25		Sou'wester Slabs	VD ***		110m	• 5		Cir Mhor
26		Labyrinth	VS 4b *		120m	• 6		Cir Mhor
		THE LAKE DISTRICT
27		Little Chamonix	VD ***		70m	• 4		Shepherd’s Crag
28		Gillercombe Buttress	S 4a ***		?			Gillercombe
29		Troutdale Pinnacle	S ***		105m	• 6		Black Crag...
30		Bracket and Slab Climb	VS 4b ***		97m	• 5		Gimmer Crag
31		Ash Tree Slabs	VD ***		?			Gimmer Crag
32		'C' Route	S 4b ***		?			Gimmer Crag
33		Bowfell Buttress	HS 4b ***		110m	• 4		Bowfell
34		Murray's Route	S 4a ***		?			Dow Crag
35		Jone's Route Direct from Lord's Rake	HS 4b ***		?			Scafell Crag
36		Moss Ghyll Grooves	VS 4c ***		79m	• 4		Scafell Crag
37		Needle Ridge	VD ***		114m	• 5		The Napes
38		The Wasdale Crack	HS 4c ***		17m	• 2		The Napes
39		Tophet Wall	HS 4b ***		75m	• 4		The Napes
40		New West Climb	VD ***		?			Pillar
41		Rib and Slab Climb	HS 4b ***		?			Pillar
		WALES
42		Great Gully	S ***		267m	• 11		Craig Yr Ysfa
43		Gashed Crag	VD **		190m	• 6		Tryfan
44		Overlapping Ridge Route (First Pinnacle Rib)	D **		150m			Tryfan
45		Grooved Arête	HVD 4a ***		230m	• 8		Tryfan
46		Direct Route	VD ***		85m	• 5		Tryfan
47		Pulpit Route	VD **		87m	• 5		Tryfan
48		Direct Route	VS 4c ***		88m	• 7		Glyder Fach
49		Hope	VD ***		135m	• 4		Idwal Slabs (aka...
50		Lazarus	S 4a ***		43m	• 2		Idwal Slabs (aka...
51		The Arete	VD **		24m			Idwal Slabs (aka...
52		Grey Slab	VS 4b ***		81m	• 2		Glyder Fawr
53		Nea	VS 4b **		75m	• 4		Clogwyn y Grochan
54		Crackstone Rib	S 4a ***		55m	• 3		Carreg Wastad
55		The Wrinkle	VD **		75m	• 3		Carreg Wastad
56		Flying Buttress	VD ***		87m			Dinas Cromlech
57		Spiral Stairs	VD ***		84m			Dinas Cromlech
58		The Cracks	HS 4c ***		90m	• 6		Dinas Mot
59		Main Wall	HS 4b ***		140m	• 6		Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las)
60		Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands	S 4b **		286m	• 12		Y Lliwedd
61		Creagh Dhu Wall	HS 4b ***		65m	• 2		Craig y Castell...
62		Will o' the Wisp	HVD ***		95m	• 6		Craig Cywarch (aka...
		PENNINE AND PEAK
63		Red Pencil Direct	HS 4b ***		?			Pen-y-ghent
64		Parson's Chimney	HS 4b ***		17m			Almscliff
65		Sail Buttress	HS 4b **		14m			Birchen Edge
66		Topsail	VS 4c **		12m			Birchen Edge
67		Powder Monkey Parade	S 4b **		16m			Birchen Edge
68		Flying Buttress	HVD 4a ***		24m			Stanage Popular
69		April Crack	HS 4b ***		16m			Stanage Popular
70		Hargreaves' Original	VS 4c ***		18m			Stanage Popular
71		Central Climb	VS 4c ***		38m	• 3		Hen Cloud
72		Modern	VS 4b **		20m			Hen Cloud
73		K2	S 4b **		30m	• 2		Hen Cloud
74		Via Dolorosa	VS 4c ***		32m			Roaches Lower Tier
75		Black and Tans	S 4a ***		30m	• 2		Roaches Upper Tier
76		Technical Slab	HS 4a ***		24m			Roaches Upper Tier
		THE SOUTH
77		Piton Route	VS 4c **		58m	• 3		Avon Gorge (Main...
78		The Devil's Slide	HS 4a ***		117m	• 5		Lundy
79		Demo Route	HS 4b ***		19m	• 2		Sennen
80		Terrier's Tooth	HS 4b ***		40m	• 3		Chair Ladder
81		Pendulum Chimney	S 4b ***		59m	• 5		Chair Ladder
82		Doorpost	HS 4b ***		67m	• 3		Bosigran
83		Climbers' Club Ordinary	VS 4b **		52m	• 3		The Dewerstone
			227 stars		7,798m	• 276